FINALLY!!!! As a knife maker and machinist for over 35 years, I watch everyone’s video on knife making and the heat treating methods they use. Hundreds of videos and YOU were the ONLY one I seen continuously moving the blade during quenching to prevent vapor lock on the blade... GREAT job... blade looks AWESOME. Job well done
Fair play mate out of all the people I follow on KZclip who make knives you're the best one by far!! Your explanation throughout the whole process is next level 💪🤙 I thoroughly enjoy watching your videos, keep up the amazing work 😁🤙
new sub...love watching blacksmithing...it is always interesting to take a material that is seen as immovable and mold it to your will...great job...cant wait to see more!
I'm new here and glad I found this. So satisfying to watch. I'm curious and maybe there is a reason. Could you mix the 2 different size ball bearings? I think that would be cool
Looks good! If you want more of a scale pattern, don't add the powdered steel, just use the ball bearings. Or just wet the bearings and "powder" them with steel before you put them in the can but don't fill it with powder. Then when you press them they form together. It makes a nice pattern. Also the 52100 needs to be worked really hot or you get cracking like you had when pressing the billet. Looks like you got them all ground out though. Nice job and great blade!
Thanks! I soaked the can for about 15+ minutes so I think I had enough heat but maybe the corners cooled off enough, not sure if it's that or something else. Fortunately it was just surface imperfections..
Now that lead white is strictly controlled, white paint is usually made with titanium dioxide and/or zinc oxide. The latter tends to de-laminate, which might be a good thing for this application. Sunscreen and toothpaste often contain those pigments too.
This was cool to watch. Your explanation as you prepared your canister answered a few questions I've always had about how and why it's done the way it is. Nice work. Thank you.
Right on!! That blade looks awesome!! I ditched mild steel tubing a long time ago and started using stainless tubing. I just did a Viking axe from a 3x3x5” can.🔥⚒💪🏻
@Fire Creek Forge the sheet like you used is a little cheaper I believe. But ss tubing is readily available where I live. But yeah the billet will literally fall right out of the tubing.
My kid and I love watching your videos! They are so instructive and fascinating to watch. You have helped this man bond with his 6 year old. Awesome job!
Dude, you almost gave me a heart attack at 04:39 with the sound of a car's wheels screeching. I thought someone lost control and was coming for my front wall !! I love your channel !! Very interesting work you do
That is a very nice pattern i wonder how hard it would be to do by hand.. I think if you kept the temp up higher when you were foirging on the press it would have not cracked like that. was prob cooling at a faster rate creating seperation at the extremitys of the stock.. Cheers Martin
This would be a challenge to do by hand, but possible I suppose. I tend to thing the cracks were evidence of slight voids in the can, as I kept it near a welding heat on all forging passes in the can.
Hey mate, as an old school Boilermaker (Ozzy not pommy) you could save yourself some grief with the capping if you just made the caps a couple of mills (say 40-50 thou) smaller than the widest section of your canister. Then you can get a nice neat (quick) corner-to-corner weld.
I've recently became interested in metallurgy, not necessarily in forging myself, just to get a better understanding of the processes involved. You hit it with the grinder again after you drew it out on the power hammer... Would it have been possible to reheat and work the metal more? I'm just curious as to the reason why it was removed. - Due to the outside having impurities? - Practicality (Not worth the work)? - Or was it to preserve the pattern? Perhaps some combination of those factors. Anyway, it seems to have turned out rather well. Cheers.
Thanks! In this case grinding out the surface cracks is really the only way to get the piece to a desirable condition. Getting those cracks to close up with forge welding is technically possible, but not worth the trouble.
hey man! nice videos! about ball bearings in a canister..... keep the metal really hot.... they develop cracks otherwise... i've used big bearings for some knives and they tend to crack when underheated.... i do not know why.... maybe stresses from manufacturing? maybe those are the cracks you saw when drawing it out after taking of the canister... keep it up man!
In my experience if you just go ahead and work the billet with the jacket still on. The whole thing comes together a lot better far less inclusions. And the jacket comes away naturally admittedly I do use white out not the method you used but can’t see it being any different. Also when I put the cap on the canister I chuck it in the press before welding. That one thing alone has made a world of difference to the quality of the final product
If you made your own tubing with alternating 1095, 5n20 etc eliminating stripping the can off? Would it help with production? Would the time savings offset the cost of materials?
Curious. Did the steel powder act as a fluxing material? I would have figured adding some borax or something to flux would have been in order. Cool knife though. It's going to be a beauty when finished.
Where did you get the steel powder with the Nickle content? I've made a similar pattern, but only had 1084 powder and 52100 ball bearings so the pattern did not have much contrast. Beautiful blade by the way. Thanks
Man that is wicked cool. Took every free minute i had since earlier this afternoon to watch it, but I enjoyed it. It's gunna be an amazing and beautiful tool....sadly, probably not mine. I'm going cry myself to sleep
I have it spiked down solid (RR spikes) to a big stump of wood, then I put a set of tire chains around the base. It also has great rebound from being mounted solidly to that extra mass of the stump, I think.
@7:00 ...you'll wanna pre-drill a vent hole in each end-cap before welding the canister closed. Any moisture inside your materials could turn that canister into a "pipe-bomb", real fast! Safety first, gents!
Which powder did you use on this, the 2 or 4%? I’ve been looking at that product and been on the fence on which to get. If you mentioned it, I didn’t catch it and apologize
I wonder what was up with all those inclusions in his canister weld, was it the alloys in the steel? Did he not allow it to soak long enough at a forge weld temperature? Beautiful blade though.
I don't really know, I think perhaps the corners didn't get enough pressure during the weld since the can had rounded corners and my dies have sharp corners, leaving a small void between the dies and the can at the top and bottom corners.
What if you're tube was a hardnable steel and maybe smaller diameter and stacked in a pattern so after squished you can cut tile's for a mosaic pattern?
Could you share the specs on your hydraulic press. I want to make one as fast as yours. Motor HP & rpm.Pump rpm, flow & pressure. Along with ram piston diameter will do it. Thanks !
I'm not a smith, but one thing i see a lot of videos of where people make mistakes is, i didn't see you clean your ball bearings. sometimes they have a rust inhibitor that can cause to delaminations in the weld. did you clean off the bearings off camera?
not sure why, but hammering off the slag is the most satisfying part of stick welding. and chipping it off to reveal a stack of perfectly spaced dimes, chef's kiss.
I'm new to forging but would it not help with the forge welding of the bearings to each other, if you clean the bearings first before putting them in the can?
Power hammers replaced 9 hammer men with 5 to 8 lbs sledgehammers. Who worked in three-man shifts. When one team got tired the next team switched in. As for the power grinders, they were powered by wind, water, or treadmill.
Good lord!! I swear your beard is getting bigger and bigger between every video...!!🤣🤣 Great job on the build maaan!!! Can’t wait for the 4.5 ish hammer!! Thanks man!!!
You probably needed more heat for your initial forge weld...get that thing to a yellow heat and literally smoking hot when welding, and don't bother trying to close cold shuts unless you're at a welding heat or you'll just end up with inclusions. Looks like you had it just hot enough to get it welded but you would have had less to grind off and more good steel if you had it hotter for your weld. You can also paint the inside of your canister with liquid paper or a paint containing titanium oxide instead of lining it with stainless foil. Cool pattern and nice shape on the blade too.
@Fire Creek Forge Sounds a bit full on but for cans they need a lot of time, the bulk of that steel looked good, it probably only needed another 5 minutes.
@Paul Robertson I had some me powder steel leakage from the ss wrap the way I did it, the paint method wouldn't have that problem so it’s probably better...
@Fire Creek Forge ...Well CPMD2 is the better version of Regular D2 and it is in powdered form then heat treated and cryogenically tempered...Now I'm not positive us mere mortals can get the powdered form...YOU'RE the Blacksmith and Knife maker, you tell me!! Lol...
@Fire Creek Forge ...👍 Great! See how it works with CPMD2...The blade will be harder and more abrasion resistant along with greater rust resistance...It'll also be sharper...You may have to heat it a little longer with a couple of more heats and the steel may need to be a little hotter when you quench it, along with a little hotter tempering cycles...It'll be damn near indestructible if you do it right, which I'm sure you will...Now, if you make it with a Seal Pup design with Thunderstorm Kevlar Scales, I'm SURE I know someone who'll buy it immediately!! 😉 Lol...How does that sound Eliyahu??!!
![Los Gemelos De Sinaloa - Me Vas A Llorar [Official Video]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/3FHjHkI8BHw/mqdefault.jpg)
FINALLY!!!! As a knife maker and machinist for over 35 years, I watch everyone’s video on knife making and the heat treating methods they use. Hundreds of videos and YOU were the ONLY one I seen continuously moving the blade during quenching to prevent vapor lock on the blade... GREAT job... blade looks AWESOME. Job well done
ABSOLUTELY!!!!!
I’ve seen too many just stick the knife into the quench oil and just let it sit there....
Again, GREAT job!!!
Thanks! Yes, immediate and continuous agitation in the quench is key!
Fair play mate out of all the people I follow on KZclip who make knives you're the best one by far!! Your explanation throughout the whole process is next level 💪🤙 I thoroughly enjoy watching your videos, keep up the amazing work 😁🤙
Thanks a bunch!
new sub...love watching blacksmithing...it is always interesting to take a material that is seen as immovable and mold it to your will...great job...cant wait to see more!
Thanks for being here!
Awesome looking pattern. I definitely want to see the finished blade.
Thanks!! I'm excited to get it finished
That pattern came out really nice! I did not expect it to be that good looking at the start of the video but it looks great!
Thanks, I wasn't sure how it would turn out!
I'm new here and glad I found this. So satisfying to watch. I'm curious and maybe there is a reason. Could you mix the 2 different size ball bearings? I think that would be cool
Looks good! If you want more of a scale pattern, don't add the powdered steel, just use the ball bearings. Or just wet the bearings and "powder" them with steel before you put them in the can but don't fill it with powder. Then when you press them they form together. It makes a nice pattern. Also the 52100 needs to be worked really hot or you get cracking like you had when pressing the billet. Looks like you got them all ground out though. Nice job and great blade!
Thanks! I soaked the can for about 15+ minutes so I think I had enough heat but maybe the corners cooled off enough, not sure if it's that or something else. Fortunately it was just surface imperfections..
I want to see the rest of this. The blade has a unique pattern. Looks great.
That blade is jaw dropping, you did a great job on it.
Thank you!
Now that lead white is strictly controlled, white paint is usually made with titanium dioxide and/or zinc oxide. The latter tends to de-laminate, which might be a good thing for this application. Sunscreen and toothpaste often contain those pigments too.
This was cool to watch. Your explanation as you prepared your canister answered a few questions I've always had about how and why it's done the way it is. Nice work. Thank you.
Same, I see a lot of blacksmiths use this method and they don't explain at all why they're doing it. Nice to see it laid out here!
Good deal, thanks for watching!
Right on!! That blade looks awesome!! I ditched mild steel tubing a long time ago and started using stainless tubing. I just did a Viking axe from a 3x3x5” can.🔥⚒💪🏻
@Fire Creek Forge the sheet like you used is a little cheaper I believe. But ss tubing is readily available where I live. But yeah the billet will literally fall right out of the tubing.
Cool! Is that SS tubing expensive? I haven't looked into it, but that sounds like a good idea
My kid and I love watching your videos! They are so instructive and fascinating to watch. You have helped this man bond with his 6 year old. Awesome job!
@Fire Creek Forge we really like when you do mosaic Damascus.
That's awesome, thank you sir
That pattern turned out gorgeous! I'd like to see something like that in San Mai with a O1 core or something similar.
Beautiful. Id love to see you make a tamascus blade. Supposedly super hard to do but they look insanely beautiful. New subscriber now for sure.
@Traxion thanks!
I second this idea and love how detailed your explanations are
That sounds like a neat idea. Thanks for watching and subscribing!
Man that was just crazy to look at I love it !!!!
What’s a blade like that cost ? Roughly, any one ?
That pattern looks kewl, will be interesting how you work that with the guard and handle to continue the theme or not :)
I love the stainless foil method. Great looking blade.
Thanks! I didn't get a super tight wrap so had some powder leak out and weld to the can a little bit, but nothing too bad.
Dude, you almost gave me a heart attack at 04:39 with the sound of a car's wheels screeching. I thought someone lost control and was coming for my front wall !!
I love your channel !! Very interesting work you do
Me too!😭😂
Haha, oops! Thanks for watching!
Man oh man, that is going to be a beautiful knife when you get finished with it! Good video! Thanks for posting this video!
@Fire Creek Forge That's a big and sexy blade.
Thanks for watching!
I like to watch your videos. You allways try to comments what you do and i pick up alot of usefull things in my own work derived from you. Thank you
Thanks for watching!
Cannot wait to see what you do with the handle and guard to match such a great pattern. The hole you drilled allows air to escape?
It allows air and gas to escape that way it doesn't explode
Thanks! Yep that's right
that blade looks awesome!!
That is a very nice pattern i wonder how hard it would be to do by hand.. I think if you kept the temp up higher when you were foirging on the press it would have not cracked like that. was prob cooling at a faster rate creating seperation at the extremitys of the stock.. Cheers Martin
This would be a challenge to do by hand, but possible I suppose. I tend to thing the cracks were evidence of slight voids in the can, as I kept it near a welding heat on all forging passes in the can.
Hey mate, as an old school Boilermaker (Ozzy not pommy) you could save yourself some grief with the capping if you just made the caps a couple of mills (say 40-50 thou) smaller than the widest section of your canister. Then you can get a nice neat (quick) corner-to-corner weld.
Check out Big Dog Forge, he uses a stainless tube with mild steel caps . They seem to weld together securely. It might be something to try.
@fighterx good to know
Could tig weld it using 309 L wire. Its made specifically to weld mild steel to stainless.
Sounds like a good idea
nice looking "overlay" pattern, very nice finish.
Is this stainless steel foil the same type you’d use to heat treat? Knife came out amazing, by the way.
Yep it is. Thanks!
Stellar craftsmanship!
Thanks for watching!
Very cool pattern!
Nice one! The quench scene was perfect asmr 👍🏻
Thanks for watching!
Awesome pattern on that one!!
Thank you!
Muy buen trabajo
My gosh what a gorgeous hunk of steel,awesome shop you have there too my friend!
Thank, and thanks for watching!
Good video brother keep em coming!
Thanks for watching!
You do a great job.
I've recently became interested in metallurgy, not necessarily in forging myself, just to get a better understanding of the processes involved. You hit it with the grinder again after you drew it out on the power hammer... Would it have been possible to reheat and work the metal more? I'm just curious as to the reason why it was removed.
- Due to the outside having impurities?
- Practicality (Not worth the work)?
- Or was it to preserve the pattern?
Perhaps some combination of those factors. Anyway, it seems to have turned out rather well.
Cheers.
@Fire Creek Forge Gotcha. That's kind of what I was thinking. Thanks for the info.
Thanks! In this case grinding out the surface cracks is really the only way to get the piece to a desirable condition. Getting those cracks to close up with forge welding is technically possible, but not worth the trouble.
Cool knife. What was the nickel content of the powdered steel?
Thanks! 4% nickel content I think
hey man! nice videos! about ball bearings in a canister..... keep the metal really hot.... they develop cracks otherwise... i've used big bearings for some knives and they tend to crack when underheated.... i do not know why.... maybe stresses from manufacturing? maybe those are the cracks you saw when drawing it out after taking of the canister... keep it up man!
Thanks!
In my experience if you just go ahead and work the billet with the jacket still on. The whole thing comes together a lot better far less inclusions. And the jacket comes away naturally admittedly I do use white out not the method you used but can’t see it being any different. Also when I put the cap on the canister I chuck it in the press before welding. That one thing alone has made a world of difference to the quality of the final product
If you made your own tubing with alternating 1095, 5n20 etc eliminating stripping the can off? Would it help with production? Would the time savings offset the cost of materials?
You can also just cut a 45 on two opposing corners and it comes off a lot easier.
Have you tried the white out method to help separate the steel from the outside?
Yes but I like using white spray paint now
Curious. Did the steel powder act as a fluxing material? I would have figured adding some borax or something to flux would have been in order. Cool knife though. It's going to be a beauty when finished.
Flux is only used in an open atmosphere forge weld, in this case the steel was protected from oxygen inside the can so no oxidation/scale
Geat video they are getting better and the blade look great
Thanks!
Where did you get the steel powder with the Nickle content? I've made a similar pattern, but only had 1084 powder and 52100 ball bearings so the pattern did not have much contrast. Beautiful blade by the way. Thanks
Thanks! I got it from Jantz Supply, knifemaking dot com
Man that is wicked cool. Took every free minute i had since earlier this afternoon to watch it, but I enjoyed it. It's gunna be an amazing and beautiful tool....sadly, probably not mine. I'm going cry myself to sleep
Thanks man
Haha I won't tell anyone
Lol I'm kidding about the crying part....far as you know 🤔
Your video's are amazing 👍
Titanium or Zinc oxides are commonly used as weld prevention.
Esta fantástico
great vid! also, man your anvil is really quiet.. Any videos on how you got the sound to be so dampened?
I have it spiked down solid (RR spikes) to a big stump of wood, then I put a set of tire chains around the base. It also has great rebound from being mounted solidly to that extra mass of the stump, I think.
I don’t understand why all those Bladesmiths on forge in fire don’t use this technique. It’s way easier than using whiteout.
Ahhh the pains of welding with an AC buzz box. 😂
@7:00 ...you'll wanna pre-drill a vent hole in each end-cap before welding the canister closed. Any moisture inside your materials could turn that canister into a "pipe-bomb", real fast! Safety first, gents!
Cool I hope I see it's for sale before others lol cause of love to have it
Gorgeous!!!
Which powder did you use on this, the 2 or 4%? I’ve been looking at that product and been on the fence on which to get. If you mentioned it, I didn’t catch it and apologize
@Mwwright79 cool!
@Fire Creek Forge Nice, I really liked the outcome you achieved, will be trying soon. Thank you!
This is the 4%
Nice pattern, should be an impressive knife when finished. Regards from down under.
Thank you, thanks for watching
Awesome!
Beautiful knife
... какой красивый рисунок получается из шариков у тебя псэпшские руки и сюшмакуртническая голова, ты плюртник правильно- хороший мастер!!!
I'd be curious to see how you'd do on Forged In Fire
@trith72 thanks!
@Fire Creek Forge Just went back and watched the episode, you kicked ass. Awesome work man!
@Fire Creek Forge haven't seen that season yet, I will have to check it out
Thanks, I was on Season 6 Episode 8
Do you think that mixing the two sphere sizes would have mucked up the final product?
I'm sure you could mix and match bearing sizes
Good job!
beautiful work
Thanks!
I wonder what was up with all those inclusions in his canister weld, was it the alloys in the steel? Did he not allow it to soak long enough at a forge weld temperature? Beautiful blade though.
I don't really know, I think perhaps the corners didn't get enough pressure during the weld since the can had rounded corners and my dies have sharp corners, leaving a small void between the dies and the can at the top and bottom corners.
Looking gorgeous
Did you clean the bearings in acetone or alcohol? They probably have a light coat of machine oil on them.
i would love to see this again but try giving the billet a twist
What if you're tube was a hardnable steel and maybe smaller diameter and stacked in a pattern so after squished you can cut tile's for a mosaic pattern?
Worth a try I'm sure!
can u do a vid. where it's just making damascus with random pieses of steel u find around the shop. and u can only use same thing once!!
Are those chrome G25 bearings? I thought they were, but was surprised they etched dark.
yep. The small amount of chromium doesn't make a difference
Gidday mate, have you thought about warming your powdered steel in a pot to see if it flows better when putting it in the can.
What kind of steel is the powder?
Could you share the specs on your hydraulic press. I want to make one as fast as yours. Motor HP & rpm.Pump rpm, flow & pressure. Along with ram piston diameter will do it. Thanks !
You bet, here's the link to a video I did on it: kzclip.org/video/sujJoG5pVj4/бейне.html
Stunning
Very nice 👌
Another blacksmith I watch, Shurap, adds spices to the mix before sealing the top. Literal spices, like pepper.
I use white out and it works perfectly fine too
Cool, yeah I just had the stainless foil scraps already so I used that this time
I am actually looking for a damascus bowie from a knife maker or blacksmith. What would be an approximate price on something like this?
About $1500
watching Oct. 2022 / man you have learn a lot since this old video !! have seen some of your recent videos
I'm not a smith, but one thing i see a lot of videos of where people make mistakes is, i didn't see you clean your ball bearings. sometimes they have a rust inhibitor that can cause to delaminations in the weld. did you clean off the bearings off camera?
I see. These were clean and dry, everything went together fine. Good to know, different suppliers likely may ship on hem in different condition
Love a big blade
not sure why, but hammering off the slag is the most satisfying part of stick welding. and chipping it off to reveal a stack of perfectly spaced dimes, chef's kiss.
Beautiful
Your like a mountain man. How did you grow such a bushy beard so quickly.
Haha that's right
Must be all that Texas sunshine.
I couldn’t manage that thickness in a year lol
I'm new to forging but would it not help with the forge welding of the bearings to each other, if you clean the bearings first before putting them in the can?
@Jeffrey Redinger thank you!
@Fire Creek Forge i thought they might be, but wasn't sure & it looked like it forge welded really good. That scale pattern looks beautiful
These ones are clean, as they are new.
Makes you wonder how folks forged steel before power grinders and hammers
Power hammers replaced 9 hammer men with 5 to 8 lbs sledgehammers. Who worked in three-man shifts. When one team got tired the next team switched in.
As for the power grinders, they were powered by wind, water, or treadmill.
Really nice pattern
Thank you!
Good lord!! I swear your beard is getting bigger and bigger between every video...!!🤣🤣
Great job on the build maaan!!!
Can’t wait for the 4.5 ish hammer!!
Thanks man!!!
@Fire Creek Forge thanks maaan!! I love how the blade came out
Haha, thanks. Yep I've gotta make a punch for the press and then give it a go
8:03 i like this part, idk why
Where do you source that ball bearings?
Ebay
You probably needed more heat for your initial forge weld...get that thing to a yellow heat and literally smoking hot when welding, and don't bother trying to close cold shuts unless you're at a welding heat or you'll just end up with inclusions. Looks like you had it just hot enough to get it welded but you would have had less to grind off and more good steel if you had it hotter for your weld.
You can also paint the inside of your canister with liquid paper or a paint containing titanium oxide instead of lining it with stainless foil.
Cool pattern and nice shape on the blade too.
@Fire Creek Forge Sounds a bit full on but for cans they need a lot of time, the bulk of that steel looked good, it probably only needed another 5 minutes.
Thanks! I soaked the can for 15+ minutes, not sure why that happened..
I watched Jason knight do this, he sandblasted the can inside and out then got some spray paint with titanium in it and the can came right off
@Paul Robertson I had some me powder steel leakage from the ss wrap the way I did it, the paint method wouldn't have that problem so it’s probably better...
@Fire Creek Forge you're method worked great too
Yeah I've seen that
Derivative is now in my vocabulary. Thanks lol.
Eliyahu, nice work...Out of curiosity, what are the 2 types of steel used? You never mentioned it specifically...Btw, how's things brother??
@Fire Creek Forge ...You may want to look up knife steel needs and their article on D2...Interesting stuff...
@Rafi Ben Avi haha well I've never heard of CPM steel being available in the pre finished form...
@Fire Creek Forge ...Well CPMD2 is the better version of Regular D2 and it is in powdered form then heat treated and cryogenically tempered...Now I'm not positive us mere mortals can get the powdered form...YOU'RE the Blacksmith and Knife maker, you tell me!! Lol...
@Rafi Ben Avi what in the world.? Can you actually get d2 powder?
@Fire Creek Forge ...👍 Great! See how it works with CPMD2...The blade will be harder and more abrasion resistant along with greater rust resistance...It'll also be sharper...You may have to heat it a little longer with a couple of more heats and the steel may need to be a little hotter when you quench it, along with a little hotter tempering cycles...It'll be damn near indestructible if you do it right, which I'm sure you will...Now, if you make it with a Seal Pup design with Thunderstorm Kevlar Scales, I'm SURE I know someone who'll buy it immediately!! 😉 Lol...How does that sound Eliyahu??!!
Does anyone use a high carbon steel can to do this to not worry about the mild steel? Do they/can they even make a high carbon can?